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Tianxin Pavilion, Changsha | Discover Half of Hunan's History on the Ancient City Wall

As the only well-preserved ancient city wall relic in Changsha, Tianxin Pavilion is more than just a city landmark. Here, every green brick hides the smoke of the Taiping Rebellion, and every step has trod the scorched earth of the Wenxi Fire. As a travel blogger deeply involved in Changsha, I have my own secret strategy for avoiding the crowds and unlocking the secrets of history. [Exploring History: Touching the Millennia-Old City Wall] At 7 a.m., I ascended the mottled stone steps of the west gate of Tianxin Pavilion. In the quiet time before the park opened, sunlight pierced through the ancient camphor trees and fell on the Ming Dynasty city wall. The bluestone strips touched by my fingertips still carried the coolness of dew. This 226-meter-long section of the city wall was originally built during the Hongwu period of the Ming Dynasty. Although it was severely damaged in the 1938 Changsha fire, some of the original bricks and stones were deliberately preserved during the reconstruction. Look closely, and those green bricks engraved with the words "Changsha Prefecture" are living fossils of history. Tips - A couplet, "Ancient Pavilion of Xiaoxiang, Famous City of Qin and Han Dynasties," is hidden on the east side of the city wall. It is Guo Moruo's authentic work. - The "Soul of the Taiping Army" relief wall inside the pavilion is a must-see. It recreates the tragic scene of the Western King Xiao Chaogui being killed by a cannon here. --- [Highlights: Overlooking the City from Changsha's Highest Point] The three-story observation deck of the main pavilion is the highest point (60m) in Changsha's old town. I prefer to climb the pavilion at 5 p.m. to watch the sunset glow spread from Yuelu Mountain over the IFS Twin Towers. Half is the silhouette of the ancient pavilion's eaves and upturned corners, and half is the neon lights of the bustling traffic on both sides of the Xiang River. The panoramic painting hall of the "Changsha Fire" inside the pavilion is shocking. Sound, light, and electrical technology recreate the 1938 fire that changed the city's fate. The charred beams and columns in the firelight form a cruel contrast with the glass curtain wall of the new city outside the window. Hidden Spots 1. Second-floor corridor of the main pavilion: Use a wide-angle lens to capture the "Chu Tian Yi Lan" plaque and Du Fu Jiang Ge in the same frame. 2. Ginkgo forest at the south gate entrance (mid-to-late November): Golden fallen leaves perfectly match the vermilion city wall. 3. Site of the west cannon platform: Shoot the ancient bronze cannon pointing directly at the modern CBD from a low angle to capture the conflicting beauty. --- [Unique Experience: Discovering the Secrets of Old Changsha] Most tourists don't know that Tianxin Pavilion Park itself is a living folk museum. Every Wednesday and Saturday morning, the "Old Changsha Tea House" at the foot of the city wall is a treasure: Order a cup of sesame and bean tea for 5 yuan and listen to the old Changsha dialect telling anecdotes about Tianxin Pavilion during the Republic of China. If you happen to be there on the third day of the third lunar month, you can also encounter the century-old "Wenchang Sacrifice" and watch students in Hanfu reciting Chu Ci in front of Chonglie Gate. --- [Nearby Food: A Culinary Adventure Under the City Wall] Walk 8 minutes from the south gate of the scenic area into the alleys of Nanmenkou, where the most authentic local flavors are hidden: - Zhou Ji Rice Noodle Shop (No. 16 Xianzheng Street): Rice noodles with shredded pork served in enamel bowls, with a broth simmered for 30 years. - Zhou Ji Fried Food: Secret tenderloin, available only after 4 p.m., so spicy it makes you cry but you still want to eat it. - Si Jie Jie Spicy Crayfish (Laodong West Road): The originator of spicy crayfish stir-fried with perilla, made by a Tianxin Pavilion native. --- [Practical Tips] 🎫 Tickets: 30 yuan for the pavilion area, free for the park (recommended to buy a combined ticket) ⏰ Time: Pavilion 8:00-17:30, park open all day 🚇 Transportation: Subway Line 1, Exit 2 of Nanmenkou Station, 12-minute walk 📆 Best time: 7-9 a.m. or weekday afternoons to avoid the square dancing crowds 📌 Bonus: The stone lions in front of Chonglie Gate hide the two characters "Changsha." Try to find them. Standing at the highest point of Tianxin Pavilion, the Xiang River flows quietly in the distance. This repeatedly destroyed and rebuilt city gate is like a portrayal of the character of Changsha people - the fire cannot burn it down, and the cultural vein will never be broken. Next time you come, remember to bring a copy of "Changsha History," sit in the shade of the Ming city wall, and wait for a wind that has traveled through thousands of years.
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Posted: Mar 21, 2025
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