The Border Town from Shen Congwen's writings is here!

Chadong Ancient Town, located at the junction of Hunan, Guizhou, and Chongqing, is the prototype of the "Border Town" described by Shen Congwen. Here, there is no excessive commercialization, only the murmuring waters of the Qingshui River, the mottled years of the stilted houses, the creaking oars at the ancient ferry, and the inherent "local flavor" and "riverside charm" of the Western Hunan people. Strolling through it, every step feels like turning a page of "Border Town"—the bluestone paths are the paper, the stilted houses are the ink, and the scent of Grandma's ginger candy is the warmth between the lines. Below is an in-depth guide blending "literary charm" and "photogenic fun" to help you appreciate the poetry of this "Border Town." 1. Basics Before You Go: Timing and Transportation - Best Seasons: - April-May (Spring rains nourish the town, and stilted houses are wrapped in fresh green, reminiscent of "the clear weather after rain" in "Border Town"); - September-October (Gentle autumn sun and cool river breezes, with osmanthus and ginger candy scents lingering); - Winter (December-February): Fewer tourists, quieter ancient town, and snow-covered stilted houses resembling ink paintings. - Transportation Guide: - Self-drive: - From Chongqing (Xiushan) → Chadong (~1 hour via Chongqing-Hunan Expressway); - From Jishou → Chadong (~2 hours via Baomao Expressway). - Public Transport: - High-speed rail to "Xiushan North Station" (Chongqing), then take a bus (¥2/person) to "Huadeng Square," followed by a taxi (¥15) to Chadong Ancient Town; - From Huaihua West Bus Station, take a bus to "Chadong" (~2.5 hours, ¥30); - From Tongren South Station (Guizhou), take a bus to "Songtao," then transfer to a minibus to Chadong (~3 hours). 2. Core Experiences: Finding "Emojis" in the Life of "Border Town" Chadong's "charm" lies in its details: the Qingshui River ferry is a flowing poem, the stilted house window lattices are paintings of time, and the covered-bowl tea in old teahouses is a song of the years... Paired with the healing scenes of "Border Town," every snapshot becomes a "literary emoji" with its own story. 1. Qingshui Riverside: Chasing the Ferry from "Border Town" for Cinematic Shots Chadong's soul lies in its water—the Qingshui River runs through the town, dividing it into "Chadong" (Hunan) and "Hong'an" (Chongqing). Walking along the river, you'll encounter "classic scenes" from "Border Town": - **Lala Ferry**: A wooden ferry without oars, connected by a steel cable. The ferryman pulls the cable with a creak to send people across (¥2/person). Best at dawn or dusk when mist rises—stand on the bow with an umbrella for a dreamy side profile shot (like Cuicui waiting for Nuosong). - **Three-No-Island (now "Cuicui Island")**: A small island in the river with a stone tablet of Shen Congwen's "Border Town" and a statue of Cuicui (wearing a bamboo hat and holding a yellow dog). Climb the island for a panoramic river view—perfect for playful "peace sign" shots or "artsy" sunset poses. - **Riverside Stilted Houses**: Many old riverside houses are now B&Bs or restaurants. The wooden railings on the second floor are ideal for photos—lean against them in light blue linen, with the river and distant mountains as your backdrop, transforming into a "Border Town maiden." 2. Ancient Streets and Alleys: Capturing Local Life in "Living History" Chadong's old streets (e.g., "Zhongzheng Street," "River Street") retain Ming-Qing-era bluestone paths and tiled roofs, with moss growing between stone walls and faded wooden signs above doorways. The air is sweet with ginger candy. Don’t miss these "iconic" scenes: - **Old Teahouses**: Century-old spots like "Tonghexiang" and "Fuyuanchang" feature bamboo chairs, wooden tables, and coarse porcelain bowls. Locals (mostly elders) chat over "Border Town covered-bowl tea" (¥5-10). Listen to tales of "whether Cuicui drank here too" and snap relaxed "sipping tea" shots. - **Handicraft Shops**: - **Ginger Candy Workshops**: Watch Grandma knead ginger candy (made with brown sugar and fresh ginger)—the stretching syrup resembles golden silk. Buy a warm piece to enjoy while snapping photos (ask, "Grandma, add more ginger!"). - **Miao Embroidery Shops**: Embroiderers stitch shoe soles and aprons with intricate patterns. Try "learning to embroider a flower" (¥20-30/person) for "focused needlework" shots. - **Ancient Bridges and Docks**: - **Yuejin Bridge**: A stone arch bridge over the Qingshui River, often walked by Cuicui and her grandfather. Women wash clothes under the bridge—capture "bridge + reflection" symmetry. - **Hong'an Old Dock**: On the Chongqing side, ferries cross to Hunan’s Chadong. Piled with bamboo baskets and fishing nets, fishermen in rubber boots resemble the novel’s "sailors." 3. Riverside Stays: Romance of Sleeping to the Sound of Water Chadong’s B&Bs feature "river views" and "stilted houses." Opt for riverside or hillside lodgings to fall asleep to the river’s murmur and wake to birdsong: - **Chadong Homestay (Zhongzheng Street)**: A renovated old house with wooden beams and carved windows. The balcony overlooks the Qingshui River—perfect for "morning mist" shots. - **Qingshui River Inn (Hong'an Old Street)**: A Chongqing-side B&B with a riverside terrace for tea and folk songs at night. Capture "toasting the moon" vibes. - **Stilted House B&B (River Street)**: Wooden two-story houses with a "floating" bedroom upstairs. Strike a pose on the corridor overlooking the river. 3. Food Map: Savoring "Western Hunan Flavors" Chadong’s rustic dishes burst with "wok hei" and "grandma’s touch": - **Sour Fish Soup**: Rice-field fish with wild peppers and mountain spices (¥50/person at "Old Dock Sour Fish"). - **Rice Tofu**: Silky rice jelly with chili oil, pickled beans, and peanuts (¥3-5 at street stalls—Grandma’s stall is the best). - **Blood Cake Duck**: Duck stewed with glutinous rice blood cakes (¥ at "Chadong Home-style Restaurant"). - **Oil Cakes**: Fried glutinous rice balls with peanuts (¥5/serving—pair with soy milk). - **Ginger Candy**: Crispy, sweet-spicy sticks (¥10/bag, great as gifts). 4. Itineraries for Different Travelers - **Literary Enthusiasts (1-Day Deep Dive)**: Morning: Zhongzheng Street → Lala Ferry to Hong'an → Cuicui Island (read "Border Town" excerpts) → Yuejin Bridge. Afternoon: Tea at River Street’s old teahouses → ginger candy/embroidery workshops → watch fishing boats return. Evening: Riverside B&B storytelling sessions. - **Couples/Friends (1-Day Light Trip)**: Morning: Riverside "Lala Ferry" photos → Cuicui Island statue reenactments. Lunch: Sour fish soup + rice tofu. Afternoon: Embroidery (make matching handkerchiefs) → riverside tea. Sunset: Yuejin Bridge "side-by-side silhouette" shots. - **Photographers (Full Day)**: 6:00-7:30 AM: Riverside mist (ferry + stilted houses). 9:00-11:00 AM: Street details (wooden lattices, bluestone paths). 3:00-5:00 PM: Backlit riverside portraits. 6:30-7:30 PM: Hong'an Dock sunset (fishing boats’ return). 5. Practical Tips - **Attire**: Wear flats for bluestone paths. For "Border Town" aesthetics, opt for light blue/gray linen dresses + straw hats (¥10 in old streets). - **Tickets**: Free entry; workshops (ginger candy/embroidery) cost ¥20-50. - **Avoid**: Overpriced ginger candy outside the scenic area (Grandma’s stalls are authentic). Take Lala Ferry in daylight. - **Hidden Gem**: Ask about "local market days" (3rd, 13th, 23rd lunar month) for dried chili, mushrooms, and handmade fabrics. Chadong’s allure isn’t in "Instagrammable spots" but in its authenticity—like "Border Town" says: "Everything is full of kindness, yet nothing goes right. But it’s this very imperfection that makes its simple goodness poignant." Here, in the river’s breeze, under stilted eaves, or through Grandma’s ginger candy, everyone finds their own "Border Town story." Whether you’re daydreaming, photographing, or savoring local life, Chadong offers memories worth reliving.