A lifelong obsession, a dream never reaching Huizhou.

## Heshun Ancient Town: A Frontier Poem Forgotten by Time Nestled among the volcanic clusters and terraced fields of Tengchong, Yunnan, lies an ancient town hailed by Xu Xiake as the "foremost town on the frontier." Heshun, a name that exudes scholarly elegance, seems to have stepped straight out of a thread-bound book. As you cross the iconic Shuanghong Bridge, you enter a living painting of the Ming and Qing dynasties. **Walking Through the Folds of History** The best way to experience Heshun is on foot in the early morning. Stroll along the lanes paved with volcanic rock, and the 600-plus traditional houses with their gray tiles and white walls gradually awaken. Note the plaques above the doorways—"Passing on a Family Tradition of Poetry and Etiquette" and "Passing on a Family Tradition of Farming and Studying." These mottled inscriptions tell of Heshun's tradition of valuing culture and education. A key recommendation is to visit the moon-viewing platform and carved balustrades of the Cun Family Ancestral Hall. The flower tiles from Southeast Asia and the local Bai ethnic group's wood carvings are wonderfully integrated, making them the best footnote to the "Zou Yi Fang" (traveling to foreign lands) culture. **Time Magic in the Library** The Heshun Library is worth setting aside an hour for. This, China's largest village library, houses more than 70,000 ancient books. The moment you push open the carved wooden door, the air, a blend of ink and wood, will pull you back to 1928. Why not sit by the window on the second floor and watch the light slowly move across the bookshelves through the Republic of China-era glass windows? You can almost hear the masters, such as Hu Shi, laughing and talking here. **Memories of the Ancient Tea Route on the Tip of Your Tongue** At noon, follow the aroma of bean flour to find Grandma Lin's Songhua Cake. This stall, with no sign, uses a time-honored technique to layer pine pollen and red bean paste. Pair it with a bowl of "Da Jiu Jia" (Tengchong fried rice cake), the imperial meal of Emperor Yongli of the Ming Dynasty when he was in distress, which has now become an ordinary person's lunch. If you want to experience more authentic caravan cuisine, you can go to "Mama's Taste" and order a clay pot, in which preserved pork ribs and fresh mushrooms are simmering in a broth in a volcanic rock container. **Whispers of Wetlands and Stars** Be sure to visit Xianhe Wetland in the evening. Rent a wooden boat and travel through the reed beds. Egrets fly over the bow, and the boatman will point out the sea vegetables blooming in the water—these "water quality monitors," which are extremely picky about water quality, bloom in patches in Heshun's wetlands. When night falls, if the weather is fine, the stargazing platform by Dragon Pool offers views of the Milky Way stretching across the sky. The stars that once guided the caravans home are still bright today. **Accommodation Recommendations:** 1. "General's Mansion Inn," converted from a century-old house, to experience the life of a Qing Dynasty general in his residence 2. Designer homestay "An Zhi Ruo Su," whose rooftop terrace overlooks the entire ancient town **Traveler Tips:** - Best season: September to November to avoid the rainy season and see the golden rice fields - Hidden gems: The "Cai Jiezai" market every Saturday morning, where you can find Burmese amber and local delicacies - Cultural taboos: Please smile and signal before photographing the elderly; most will gladly agree In this living history museum, every piece of volcanic rock remembers the sound of horses' hooves on the Ancient Tea Route, and every upturned eave captures the scenery of South Asia. The people of Heshun often say, "The taste of home is walking in the alley and always having someone ask if you've eaten." Perhaps this is the magic of the frontier town—making every passerby a returning resident.