Livorno: A journey of sea breeze and soul
#2024TravelReview
Livorno, a port city in Tuscany, Italy, is often underestimated and always overshadowed by dazzling cities such as Florence and Pisa. However, it has a different charm. When I first set foot on this land, I felt a sea breeze blowing on my face, with a salty smell, as if saying: "Welcome to Livorno, every day here is an adventure."
Livorno is not like those overdeveloped tourist cities. It is authentic and full of vitality. It has both cultural heritage and a simple atmosphere. Here you can find busy ports, breathtaking coastal scenery, hidden literary alleys, delicious seafood, and the sense of freedom that belongs only to the sea. During the five-day journey, I was not only attracted by its beautiful scenery and culture, but also moved by its hidden warmth and stories. The day I arrived in Livorno, the sun was shining, the sea breeze was blowing gently, and there seemed to be a faint fishy smell in the air, but it made people feel extremely real. Coming out of the station, my first stop was Quartiere Venezia, the most distinctive old town in Livorno. It is called "Little Venice" because of its winding canals, old bridges, and rows of brightly painted houses. Compared to the romance and bustle of Venice, the Venetian district of Livorno is more like a leisurely fishing village, quiet and warm.
I strolled casually along the alleys along the canal, the sunlight shining on the water, reflecting sparkling light. An old fisherman was sitting by the river mending his fishing nets. He looked up and smiled at me. This momentary kindness felt particularly heartwarming. I walked into a small bar, ordered a glass of espresso, and drank it slowly while standing by the canal. The surroundings are full of Italian bustle and leisure. Some people are riding bicycles, some are chatting, and some are feeding pigeons. Everything is so ordinary, but it makes people relax and forget the various pressures in life.
In the afternoon, I came to an ancient fortress, Fortezza Vecchia. This red brick fortification bears witness to the history of Livorno, and standing on the fortress you can overlook the entire port. The sea breeze blows from afar, bringing with it a salty and humid smell, making people feel the close relationship between this city and the sea. From afar, I saw groups of ships anchored in the port, and large cruise ships sailing in from time to time. The busyness of the port formed a sharp contrast with the tranquility of the fortress.
In the evening, I found a restaurant by the port and tasted Livorno's traditional dish, Cacciucco, a seafood soup made with various fish, shellfish and tomatoes. The soup is rich and delicious, and every bite is like sending the taste of the sea into your mouth. This dinner brought a perfect end to my first meeting with Livorno.
The next day, I decided to explore Livorno’s coastline and cultural treasures. In the morning I rented a bike and cycled along the coast of Terrazza Mascagni. This is a coastal promenade paved with black and white tiles in a checkerboard pattern. It extends to the sea, appearing both elegant and open. Standing here, you can see the endless blue horizon in front of you, and the waves hitting the rocks on the shore, making gentle sounds. The morning sun shines on your body and the sea breeze caresses your face. This feeling of close contact with nature makes you feel extremely free.
For lunch, I chose a small restaurant by the sea and ordered a local fried seafood platter. The seafood in Livorno has a special sweetness, and with a little lemon juice, it is simple but extremely delicious. The owner of the restaurant is a talkative old man who enthusiastically shared with me the history and life of Livorno. He said: "Livorno is the child of the sea. Everyone here has a desire for freedom in their bones."
In the afternoon, I went to the Museo Civico Giovanni Fattori, an art museum located in an ancient villa that houses many art treasures from the Tuscany region. The museum is most famous for its 19th-century Macchiaioli paintings, an art movement that predates Impressionism and uses light and color to depict the beauty of everyday life. Standing in front of a painting depicting a rural landscape, I suddenly felt a deep connection with art - those brushstrokes seemed to be telling some truth of life, ordinary yet eternal.
In the evening, I returned to the coast of Terrasana, this time to watch the sunset. The setting sun slowly sank into the sea, the clouds in the sky were dyed orange-red, and the sea surface sparkled with golden waves. I sat on the railing of the corridor, watching all this quietly, feeling an indescribable peace in my heart. At this moment, I seemed to have found myself deep inside.
On the third day, I decided to leave the city and visit some of the natural attractions around Livorno. In the morning, I caught a bus to Montenero. This is a hill overlooking the entire Livorno. At the highest point of the town is the famous Sanctuary of Montenero (Santuario di Montenero). This church is an important religious center in Tuscany, and its interior decoration is gorgeous and solemn.
Looking down from the church's terrace, you can see the entire Livorno, with the sea in the distance and the city nearby complementing each other. This broad vision makes people feel extremely small and yet extremely free. One wall inside the church is covered with plaques and photos of thanks from believers who have been blessed. Standing here, I can't help but start thinking about the relationship between people and faith - perhaps, in the embrace of nature, we can more easily find inner peace.
In the afternoon, I headed to Cala del Faro, a secluded cove. The sea water here is crystal clear, the sunlight penetrates the water, and you can see seaweed clinging to the rocks and small fish swimming around. I changed into my swimsuit and jumped into the sea. The cold sea water instantly surrounded me, bringing an unprecedented sense of refreshment. Floating on the water and looking at the blue sky and white clouds, I suddenly felt a pure joy - this joy comes from living in harmony with nature.
On the fourth day, I decided to explore the markets and shopping streets of Livorno to get a feel for the daily lives of the locals. I started at the Mercato Centrale, a 19th-century market building filled with stalls selling fresh seafood, cheese, bread, and other local specialities. I bought some local olive oil and Tuscan wine to take home as souvenirs.
There is also a small cafe in the market, and I ordered a cappuccino and a freshly baked croissant. This simple breakfast is full of warmth. The surrounding vendors are busy greeting customers, and the whole market is full of vitality and humanity.
In the afternoon, I visited a shopping street near the Teatro Goldoni, which is home to many boutiques and studios of local designers. I bought a handmade silk scarf with a pattern of Livorno's coastal scenery, which I felt carried my memories of the city.
On the last day of my trip, I chose to return to the coast of Terrasana to feel the familiar sea breeze again. I sat on the bench and looked through the photos I had taken in the past few days, each of which recorded every moment of my time with Livorno.
This city has no flashy attractions and no over-packaged tourist experiences, but its authenticity, its nature, and its culture deeply touched me. Livorno is like a low-key poem. Only by reading it carefully can you feel its beauty.
As the train slowly pulled away from Livorno, I looked out the window at the city for the last time. The coastline in the distance gradually became blurred, but the freedom and warmth of Livorno remained deeply in my heart.
This trip to Livorno is not just a journey, but also a dialogue with one's own soul. I know that one day in the future, I will come back here again and embrace the free sea breeze again.