[Yokohama Three Towers] (Yokohama City, Kanagawa Prefecture, former province name: Musashi)
On June 2, 1859 (Ansei 6), Yokohama Port was opened based on the Treaty of Amity and Commerce between the United States and Japan. This village on the inlet, which had previously been nothing more than a small village where people lived half farming and half fishing, was soon filled with merchants from the Western powers who established trading posts and consulates. As a clear indication of the rapid growth of East Asian trade, Japan's most advanced port city was formed in the blink of an eye. The port and foreign settlement extended about 1 km inland from the port, and the name "Kannai" (Kannai) arose from the establishment of a checkpoint to control passage into the area. In Kannai, a foreign culture rooted in the lives of foreigners was cultivated, providing a strong stimulus to the keenly curious Japanese people. The Meiji government, which inherited the Edo Shogunate and its foundations, gradually developed the port, and the number of ships calling at Yokohama Port increased. At the same time, the content and items of trade became more diverse and complex, and more and more institutions were established to manage them. These buildings were the first sight of Japan that foreign sailors saw, and the "three towers" in particular, which had a strong presence, gave rise to the nickname "cards" of the game of playing cards, which was witty and nostalgic.
① Kanagawa Prefectural Office Main Building (King, photos 2-4)
The prefectural office is still the administrative center of Kanagawa Prefecture today. Facing "Nihon-dori," which is said to be Japan's first Western-style road, it exudes a solid and dignified feeling. The current building was constructed in 1928 as part of the reconstruction efforts after the Great Kanto Earthquake, and the proposal by Obi Karo (1898-1974) was selected after a fierce competition. Although Yoshiro was only 26 years old, his unique design, which combined the then-popular Wright style with structures reminiscent of temple towers, was highly praised and marked a new trend in architectural history known as the "Imperial Crown Style." The overall color scheme is unadorned brown, but the details incorporate geometric patterns and wavy shapes, maintaining a balance that is typical of Yokohama, where Japanese and Western cultures mix. The building is open to the public only on weekdays, and you can experience the internal functions and tranquil atmosphere, as well as understand Obi's design proposals in the museum on the 6th floor. If you go up to the roof, you can see the whole of Yokohama Port with the "King's Tower" in the background, and see the graceful ships passing through the bay. Furthermore, the "Queen" tower stands on the port side and the "Jack" tower stands on the land side, creating a view that can truly be called the highlight of the history of Yokohama's development. ② Yokohama Customs House (Queen, photos 5-7)
This customs house was formerly the "Unjosho" established by the Edo Shogunate when the port was first opened. It has been in charge of trade for over 150 years, in tandem with the history of Yokohama Port. The building, built symmetrically around the smart verdigris-colored "Queen" tower, was also completed in 1934 during the reconstruction period following the Great Kanto Earthquake. It is the closest of the three towers to the port, and it is likely to have attracted the attention of sailors. Its distinctive feature is its Islamic temple-style design, which is rare in Japan, and it has a unique arch-shaped gate structure in other areas as well, giving it a unique presence. On the first floor, there is a reference room called "Queen's Square" that explains the duties and history of the customs house, and provides a gentle and light-hearted explanation of the general outline of the customs house, which is not well known to the general public.
③ Yokohama Port Opening Memorial Hall (Jack, photos 1, 8-10)
The Port Opening Memorial Hall was conceived in 1909 to commemorate the 50th anniversary of the opening of Yokohama Port, and was completed in 1917 thanks to generous donations from citizens. The building suffered extensive damage in the Great Kanto Earthquake, but the clock tower, the symbol of the building, miraculously survived and continued to watch over Yokohama's recovery. In 1927, large-scale repair work was completed, and the building was restored to its original appearance, but the domes that form both wings of the building were not restored, and the building entered into the chaotic period of war and the postwar period. After the war, the building was widely used by citizens as a public hall, but in 1985, the blueprints from the time of its construction were suddenly discovered, and repairs began on the dome, which had not been restored for a long time. The dome was completed in 1989, and the building now conveys the appearance of the Taisho era as it was. Today, the facility is open to the public, and numerous concerts and events are held here. The stained glass is a notable highlight of the building. In particular, the artwork hanging on the side of the stairs leading from the first floor to the second floor has been restored to its original appearance, just like the building itself, and depicts the "Powhatan." It was one of Perry's "black ships," and was the ship on which the Treaty of Amity and Commerce between the United States and Japan was concluded. Seeing the Powhatan shining in the sunlight on the ground, it can be seen as a composition that symbolizes the history of Yokohama, and along with the architecture that the citizens have long protected and passed down, it even has a sacred feel.
Recommendation for solo travelers: ★★★ (There are quite a few people, but it's a large place so it doesn't bother me)
Visited: 3rd Saturday in August, around 3pm
Access: About 2 minutes walk from Nihon-odori Station (to the Kanagawa Prefectural Government Office)