Hidden in the deep mountains, the "Eye of Heaven" in Guizhou holds China's most awe-inspiring romance!
Driving through southern Guizhou, the rolling mountains resemble ocean waves. The winding mountain roads snake through the folds of the karst landscape, with the lingering greenery of early autumn stubbornly coloring every crevice. As we round the final ridge, the Pingtang Kedu Astronomical Town suddenly comes into view—a cluster of sleek silver-white buildings resembling a starship docked in an emerald sea, silently guarding the giant human eye gazing into the cosmos 20 kilometers away: China's Five-hundred-meter Aperture Spherical Radio Telescope (FAST).
When the National Astronomical Observatories launched the FAST project in 1994, finding a natural depression large enough to hold 30 football fields was the primary challenge. Scientists scanned southwestern China using remote sensing technology, meticulously screening over 400 karst depressions. When they finally stepped into the Dawodang depression in Pingtang County, all conditions miraculously aligned: the curvature of the depression perfectly matched the telescope's spherical cap, with no towns within 5 kilometers and only one small city within 25 kilometers, offering radio silence as pristine as freshly fallen snow.
This ancient depression, dormant for millions of years, was thus entrusted with the mission of exploring the universe. In 2016, 4,450 reflective panels were assembled here into a 500-meter-diameter silver mirror. By its national acceptance in 2020, its sensitivity had become 2.5 times that of the world's second-largest radio telescope, like a "cosmic radio" anchored in the Guizhou mountains, day and night capturing whispers from billions of light-years away.
Kedu Town, once an obscure border town, has been reborn thanks to FAST, transforming into a dreamlike astronomical hub. Today, its streets bear names like "Chang'e Road" and "Zhang Heng Road," hotels are themed after stars, and even streetlights are adorned with constellation patterns.
The International Astronomical Experience Center is the first stop on this journey. In the entrance hall, a statue of Qu Yuan gazing skyward stands beneath a star map, his ancient poem "Heavenly Questions" echoing under the dome's glow. Inside the exhibition hall, the walls become a 360-degree digital starry sky, with nebulae, constellations, and meteorites slowly rotating against a deep blue backdrop. The most captivating exhibit is the 1:100 scale model of FAST, where steel cables interlace with spiderweb-like precision, and simulated radio signals surge from the "dish." Here, visitors can almost touch the pulse of the stars. In the VR observation station, guests can simulate operating FAST to receive pulsar signals, experiencing the real-life monitoring work of scientists—no lectures, just the resonance of technology and imagination.
The journey to the observation deck feels like a pilgrimage. All electronic devices must be checked at security, including smartwatches and wireless earbuds. After a half-hour shuttle ride through the mountains, visitors must climb 789 steps to reach the deck—perhaps symbolizing humanity's relentless ascent in cosmic exploration.
At the summit, breath catches. Nestled among the mountains lies a giant human eye staring into the void. The first glimpse is visually staggering. The massive parabolic dish, composed of thousands of triangular aluminum panels, glows softly under the clear sunlight of the Yunnan-Guizhou Plateau, like a pool of silver liquid or a colossal pupil embedded in the earth, intently gazing at the heavens.
Clouds drift across the sky, casting shifting light and shadow on the reflector, as if the "eye" is blinking in silent conversation with the sky. Imagine, in the dead of night, this giant eye fully awakens, turning its attention to the boundless cosmos, listening to the rhythmic heartbeat of pulsars, the sighs of distant galaxies being born or dying, and capturing faint, almost imperceptible "greetings" from potential cosmic neighbors.
On the return trip, I suddenly thought of the sci-fi novel *The Three-Body Problem*. The Red Coast Base described in the book bears striking similarities to the FAST site. Yet, the real-life "Eye of Heaven" searches for extraterrestrial traces with even greater sensitivity. I wonder: if we ever receive a signal from an alien civilization, should we respond eagerly or heed the novel's warning to "not answer"? Perhaps this is the dilemma humanity will one day face.
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**Travel Guide to Pingtang's "Eye of Heaven"**
**1. Transportation Tips**
- From Guiyang: Take the Yinbai Expressway to the Luodian Bianyang exit, then switch to Provincial Highway S315 to Kedu Town, Pingtang (approx. 180 km, 2 hours).
- From Luodian: Take the Yu'an Expressway to Kedu Town (approx. 40 km, 40 minutes).
- Within the scenic area: Access to the core observation deck requires a low-frequency diesel shuttle; walking or private vehicles are prohibited.
**2. Attractions**
- **FAST Observation Deck**: Overlook the giant "dish."
- **Astronomical Experience Center**: Interactive exhibits and cosmic exploration.
- **Planetarium Shows**: Daily screenings at 10:00, 12:00, 14:00, and 16:00.
**Nearby Attractions**:
- **Jiacha Scenic Area**: Bamboo rafting in Swallow Cave and bamboo-lined waterfalls.
- **Zhangbu "Hidden Character Stone"**: Geological wonders and red culture.
- **Pingtang Tiankeng (Sinkhole) Cluster**.
- **Sky Bridge Service Area**: Stop by the Pingtang Grand Bridge for "bridge-tourism" sights.
**3. Accommodation**
- **Luxury**: Kedu's Stellar Destiny Hotel, some rooms equipped with telescopes for stargazing.
- **Budget**: Local guesthouses (¥100–300/night).
**4. Food Recommendations**
Kedu's food street offers local Buyi cuisine, including jar-cooked fish, tofu fish, Buyi chicken with litsea, and the "Buyi Eight Bowls."
**5. Tickets & Fees**
- **Standard package**: ¥220/person (online discounts available), covering shuttle rides, FAST deck, experience center, and planetarium.
- **Seniors (60+)**: Free entry, shuttle fee ¥50/person.
**6. Important Notes**
- **No electronic devices** (phones, cameras, smartwatches, etc.) allowed; free storage at the visitor center. Double security checks enforce this strictly.
- **Daily cap**: 2,000 visitors; advance booking recommended during peak seasons.
For more tips, check the "Retired Couples Travel the World" WeChat blog.