The Sky Temple Preah Vihear on the Cambodia-Thailand Border
Preah Vihear Temple dates back to the 9th century and was not completed until the early 12th century, having been constructed over multiple generations of kings.
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Located over 200 kilometers north of Siem Reap in Preah Vihear Province, the temple sits on the Cambodia-Thailand border. However, during the peak of the Khmer Empire, this was not the empire's frontier but rather its heartland. This grand temple stands as a testament to the empire's control and influence.
In modern times, both Cambodia and Thailand have claimed sovereignty over the temple. In 1962, the International Court of Justice ruled that Preah Vihear belonged to Cambodia, and in 2008, it was successfully inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site by Cambodia. Despite this, the two nations have clashed several times over the site—a lingering issue stemming from Western colonialism and the emergence of nation-states.
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The journey from Siem Reap to Preah Vihear takes about three to four hours by car, with some rough stretches of road that can feel weightless from the bumps.
Private vehicles can only go as far as the ticket office, where tickets cost $10 (purchased on-site). From there, visitors must transfer to a pickup truck or motorbike provided by the site to ascend the mountain. I opted for the pickup truck at $25 per vehicle (which can carry multiple passengers). The road is extremely steep—I silently thanked myself for not choosing to ride a motorbike.
Preah Vihear is built on the Dângrêk Mountains at an elevation of over 500 meters. The Cambodian side features steep cliffs, making the temple appear to perch dramatically atop a precipice overlooking the plains. The Thai side has gentler slopes, though entry from Thailand is no longer permitted.
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The temple’s most striking feature is its mountain-hugging design. Unlike the large temples of Angkor, which are built on flat land with compact layouts (e.g., Angkor Wat or Preah Khan), Preah Vihear stretches over 800 meters from its first gate to its final sanctuary, forming a long, narrow complex. The temple is divided into several sections connected by steep, ascending walkways, creating a sense of pilgrimage to a celestial sanctuary.
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The visit begins with the seven-headed serpent Naga. (P8)
Dedicated primarily to Shiva, the temple grounds are lined with lingas. The architectural style of individual structures resembles other Khmer temples, with lintels adorned with bas-reliefs depicting Hindu mythology.
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Here are some unique highlights~
1️⃣ The entrance flies both the Cambodian and UN flags, hinting at the site’s complicated political history.
2️⃣ Along the way, I spotted a small, grass-covered stupa. Peering inside its doorway reveals roots conquering stone—a vivid display of nature’s persistence. (P9-10)
3️⃣ Not all structures here have been fully restored. Collapsed stones are scattered everywhere, and the sparse crowds add to the mystical atmosphere.
The most unforgettable part was the final section: aside from the gallery and front gate, the main structure lies in complete ruin, with stones piled like a mountain. Against the backdrop of blue skies and white clouds, the scene was breathtaking. As I circled the ruins, I noticed freshly lit incense sticks placed inconspicuously among the rubble—a quiet act of devotion. (P12-13)
4️⃣ At the end, a viewing platform offers an endless vista of the plains below. (P14)
This faces Cambodia. Rumor has it that Thailand is visible in another direction, though I didn’t seek it out. Still, my phone buzzed with a notification: "You have arrived in Thailand."